These are not short, basic answers. They go into real detail and are based on decades of hands on experience with the breed. They will answer many of your questions and help clear up some of the common misconceptions about this breed.
When I first got Lagottos, there wasn’t much information available unless you were speaking directly with experienced breeders in Italy. None of my dogs ever seemed to get the message that they were supposed to be high energy, constantly stimulated dogs, because they simply aren’t. I raised them like any other dog, with normal activity and interaction, and that has always been more than enough.
In my experience, the idea that Lagottos are extreme, high energy dogs just isn’t accurate. That description fits something much more intense. Years ago, people didn’t describe the breed that way because it didn’t apply. What I’ve found is that Lagottos are very adaptable. They enjoy going for walks, outings, and swimming, but they are just as happy to relax, cuddle, and spend a quiet day at home. They are not destructive or difficult if they are not exercised for hours every day.
A lot of the confusion comes from online groups and forums. The same things get repeated over and over, often by people who don’t have much experience. When something is repeated enough, people start to believe it. That is how this high energy reputation has spread.
Another issue is lack of training. Some people bring home a puppy and do not put in the work with obedience, structure, or proper socialization. The puppy grows up without manners, and the behavior gets blamed on the breed instead of the lack of training. Instead of teaching basic commands like sit, come, or leave it, some people try to fix everything with more exercise, which does not solve the problem.
This seems to be mostly an American trend. If you talk to breeders in Italy, Australia, France, Austria, or Spain, they will tell you the same thing. Most Lagottos have a normal, balanced energy level. Occasionally, there is a higher energy dog, but that is the exception, not the rule.
People also create higher energy dogs without realizing it. If you are constantly interacting, playing, and keeping your puppy engaged, they will start to expect that level of attention. Dogs learn through repetition. Whatever routine you create is what they will come to rely on.
Exercise is often used as a substitute for training, which leads to more issues. If a puppy is chewing on something they should not, they need to be redirected and taught, not given more stimulation. If they are getting wild and nippy at night, that usually means they are overtired, not under exercised. What they need is rest, not more activity, even though you will often hear the opposite.
The truth is simple. Calm dogs come from calm environments. Puppies already know how to play. What they need to learn is how to settle and relax. Time spent bonding, cuddling, and being together is just as important as play.
Lagottos will adapt to your lifestyle. If you are active, they will keep up. If you are more laid back, they will settle into that as well. What you teach them to expect becomes their normal. If you want a more independent dog, give them space and let them learn to be comfortable on their own. If you want a more affectionate dog, build that connection from the beginning.
It is important not to base your understanding of a breed on one dog or one person’s experience. A lot of behavior comes down to how the dog is raised and trained, not the breed itself.
In my experience, this is one of the best breeds. They are smart, adaptable, and eager to learn. With the right guidance, they are easy to train and wonderful to live with. If you are bringing a puppy home, take the time to learn from people who truly know the breed, and be careful about taking general statements at face value.
When I first got Lagottos, there really wasn’t much information out there unless you were talking directly to experienced breeders in Italy. None of my dogs ever seemed to get the message that they were supposed to be these high energy, constantly stimulated dogs because they simply aren’t. I raised them like any other dog, with normal activity and interaction, and that has always been plenty.
The idea that Lagottos are extreme, high-energy dogs just hasn’t been true in my experience. That description sounds more like a Border Collie on overdrive. Years ago, people didn’t describe the breed that way, because it didn’t apply. What I’ve found is that Lagottos are incredibly adaptable. They enjoy going on walks, outings, and swimming, but they are just as happy to relax, cuddle, and spend a quiet day at home. They are not destructive or out of control if they aren’t exercised for hours every day.
A lot of the confusion comes from online groups and forums. The same information gets repeated over and over, often by people who don’t have much experience. When something is said enough times, people start to believe it’s fact. That’s a big part of how this “high-energy” label has taken hold.
Another issue is lack of training. Some people bring home a puppy but don’t put in the work with obedience, structure, or proper socialization. The puppy grows up without manners, and instead of recognizing that, the behavior gets blamed on the breed. Rather than teaching basic commands like sit, come, or leave it, some people try to solve everything by adding more exercise, which doesn’t fix the real problem.
This seems to be mostly an American trend. If you talk to breeders in Italy, Australia, France, Austria, or Spain, they’ll tell you the same thing: most Lagottos have a normal, balanced energy level. Every now and then, you’ll get a higher-energy dog, but that’s the exception, not the rule.
A lot of people also create higher-energy dogs without realizing it. If you are constantly in your puppy’s face, always playing, always stimulating them, they learn to expect that. Dogs learn through repetition. If you build that kind of routine, they will rely on it.
Exercise also gets used as a substitute for training, which causes problems. If a puppy is chewing on something they shouldn’t, they don’t need more stimulation—they need to be redirected and taught. If they are getting wild and nippy at night, that usually means they are overtired, not under-exercised. What they need is rest, not more activity. But you will see people say the opposite all the time.
The truth is pretty simple. Calm dogs come from calm environments. Puppies already know how to play—you don’t have to teach them that. What they need to learn is how to settle and relax. Time spent bonding, cuddling, and just being together is just as important as play.
Lagottos will adjust to your lifestyle. If you are active, they will keep up. If you are more laid back, they will be happy with that too. What you teach them to expect is what they will become used to. If you want a more independent dog, give them space and let them learn to be on their own. If you want a more affectionate dog, build that from the start.
It’s important not to base your understanding of a breed on one person’s experience or one dog. A lot of behavior comes down to how the dog is raised and trained, not the breed itself.
In my experience, this is one of the best breeds out there. They are smart, adaptable, and very willing to learn. With the right guidance, they are easy to train and wonderful to live with. If you’re bringing a puppy home, take the time to learn from people who truly know the breed, and be careful about taking general statements at face value.
Lagottos are a wonderful choice for people with allergies. I have had many people want to meet them to see if their allergies acted up and to date, nobody has ever had a reaction to my dogs. My grandson is severely allergic to dogs. He has been around ours his entire life, and he is absolutely fine with them. If anyone was ever going to have a reaction it would be him. I cannot speak for other's dogs because I do not know the purity of their bloodlines. You will not have a reaction with mine, guaranteed.
My first question is whether you are crate training. If you are, things will be much easier. If not, it will be more challenging. My second question is how consistent you are.
When a puppy pees in the house, it helps to look at what was happening at that moment instead of calling it an accident. The puppy didn’t make a mistake, they simply needed to go. Were they being actively watched or engaged with? If not, were they put in their crate or a controlled space? Were you distracted on your phone or computer while they had too much freedom? Were they given access to the house before they were ready?
The answer usually comes back to supervision and consistency. Puppies are babies, and they rely on you to guide them. How easy or difficult the process is depends on the structure, attention, and training you provide.
If we have a puppy available that has already had their first vaccinations, you are absolutely welcome to come meet them. What we do not allow is visits with very young puppies.
From time to time, people ask to come see or play with newborn litters. I have even had people ask to meet puppies that were only a few days old and get upset when I say no. Then they tell others I wouldn’t let them visit, but leave out the part that the puppies were five days old. At that stage, they are newborns with their eyes and ears closed, and it is not a reasonable request.
A lot of this comes from things people read online saying you should ask to visit a breeder’s puppies. What those lists often leave out is basic common sense and timing.
We do not allow visitors before the puppies have had their first vaccinations for several important reasons, all of which are to protect the puppies and their mother. Like human babies, young puppies have developing immune systems and are much more vulnerable to illness. Many diseases are carried on shoes and clothing without people realizing it. Something like parvovirus can be picked up in everyday places like parks or sidewalks and can wipe out an entire litter very quickly. It is not a risk we are willing to take.
We also want to protect the mother. Having strangers coming in and out while she is caring for her litter can be very stressful for her. That stress can affect how she cares for her puppies and can impact the puppies themselves. Keeping the environment calm and stable is important during those early weeks.
To help with this, we provide plenty of photos and videos so you can watch the puppies grow and see them in their home environment. This gives you a good sense of them while keeping them safe and undisturbed.
We understand how exciting it is to be waiting for a puppy, and we appreciate that enthusiasm. But until your puppy comes home, their health and safety are our responsibility, and that comes first. Waiting a few extra weeks is worth it to ensure you are bringing home a healthy, well-adjusted puppy.
We also get a lot of requests from people who want to come spend time at our home to “get to know the breed.” While I am always happy to answer questions and share what I know, a short visit with someone else’s dog is not the best way to decide if a breed is right for you. That comes from learning about their traits and having honest conversations with someone experienced.
We are not a storefront with open visiting hours. Raising puppies properly takes a great deal of time and work, and we balance that with jobs, family, and other responsibilities. Everything we do is focused on raising our puppies the right way and setting them up for success in their new homes.
When you do come meet your puppy, you will be able to see that care and effort for yourself.
Rewrite
Meeting a puppy doesn’t give you an accurate idea of that baby’s personality. You’d be with them for 20 minutes, and all you see is exactly what they are doing, in that minute. You don’t have any idea whether some of them woke up, and had been running around like little maniacs for two hours before you arrived, and another two may have been napping, and woke up a couple of minutes before you got there. So what you may see is a couple of very sleepy babies, so you might just assume they aren’t playful, aren’t interactive, or don’t like you. Then you’d see the other two, and since they just woke up, you might think they were more friendly, and more interactive.
As far as the puppy liking you, baby animals don’t have those sorts of feelings. They don’t have the same thought processes, as we do. When most folks think a particular puppy chooses/likes them more than the others, it’s for the above mentioned reasons. The pup that is most awake, will seem like the one that likes you the best. They are babies, and if you are nice to them, they will love you.
A lot goes into matching puppies with the right homes. It is just as much about making sure you don’t end up with the wrong puppy as it is about finding the right one. Puppies have different personalities. Some are more independent, some are eager to please, some are busier, some are more laid back, and some have a bit of a stubborn streak. Many fall into more than one category, which is where experience matters. When you spend time with them every day, you start to get a clear sense of where each one will do best.
I look for traits that may mean a puppy needs a certain type of home. For example, a busier or more strong-willed puppy would not be a good fit for a quiet apartment lifestyle. That kind of home needs a calmer, lower energy dog. I also would not place a more independent or busy puppy with a first-time owner or in a home with very young children. That is a lot for a family to manage. On the other hand, that same puppy could do great in an active home with older kids or a family that spends a lot of time outdoors.
If there is a special needs family member or someone is interested in therapy work, temperament becomes even more important. Not every puppy is suited for that, so we do specific evaluations to find the best fit. If that is something you are looking for, it becomes the main factor when choosing your puppy.
Some puppies are naturally drawn to children. All of them are good with kids who are respectful and gentle, but there are always a few that really seek them out. I see it with my grandkids. The puppies that go right to them from toddlers and want to be close are the ones that would would love to have a home with children. That is something I take into consideration. It is not just about what a family wants. It is also about what is best for the puppy.
This is a question every breeder encounters, and we all dislike it. Asking why a puppy is still available tends to assume there must be something wrong with the puppy, which is neither accurate nor fair. In reality, there are many possible reasons, none of which have anything to do with the puppy being less desirable.
Sometimes families are waiting for a very specific combination of traits, such as personality, color, or gender. However, puppies are not placed based on appearance alone, they must be the right fit for their home. In other cases, a puppy may have been held back as a potential show prospect while we evaluate their development, and later made available if we decide not to retain them for our program. These puppies are often exceptional and are then offered as companions, sometimes at an older age with vaccinations completed and early training already in place.
There are also situations where plans change. A reserved puppy may become available due to personal circumstances, delays, or lack of follow through from a prospective owner. Occasionally, a placement may be declined if something raises a red flag about the suitability of the home. The well being of the puppy always comes first.
Breeders also consider long term compatibility very carefully. It is possible to have multiple people interested in a puppy and none are approved. In those cases, the puppy remains available until the appropriate home is found.
The most important point is that availability is never a reflection of a puppy’s quality. Responsible breeders prioritize proper placement above all else and will keep a puppy indefinitely rather than place them in an unsuitable home. While families may choose the breeder they wish to work with, breeders have the responsibility and final say in determining where their puppies go.
If a well bred puppy is available, it should be seen as an opportunity, not a concern.
Before I brought home my first Lagotto puppy, I had heard quite a bit about how much they supposedly love to dig. At the time, I had several gardens, a walk-through herb garden with a fountain in the center, a rose garden, perennial beds, and grape arbors, so naturally I was a little concerned for my plants. Wanting to be prepared, I even bought a children’s sandbox and set it up as a designated digging area.
When I got my first puppy, I took him outside and happily placed him in the sandbox. He immediately hopped out. I tried again. He hopped out again. A few weeks later, I gave it another attempt, even trying to encourage him to dig. He looked at me as though I had lost my mind and climbed right back out. I assumed perhaps he simply was not a digger and thought the next puppy surely would be. The next one reacted exactly the same way.
Based on what is often written, you would think these dogs are miniature excavators. That has not been my experience at all. My gardens and flower beds have remained perfectly intact. The truth, in my opinion, is a bit more balanced: if a Lagotto wants to dig, they are exceptionally good at it. They can dig very quickly and very efficiently. But that does not mean they have an uncontrollable or constant urge to dig. Like many breeds, they are more likely to dig when they are bored. They simply happen to be especially talented at it.
Lagotti can absolutely be trained to dig for truffles, and they are extraordinary at nose work. But in everyday life, if they are not being left outside alone for long stretches with nothing to do, most are not likely to start digging for no reason. Looking back, I suspect that is exactly why the sandbox never interested mine—there was nothing engaging or rewarding about it, and they were not bored enough to care.
Of course, I can only speak from my own experience. Others may have had different ones, and I am not suggesting they are wrong. I am only saying that none of mine have ever been serious diggers. That is why it is important not to take every generalization about a breed as absolute fact. Context matters. Someone may describe their dog as a terrible digger, but leave out the fact that the dog spends hours outside unattended each day. Variables make all the difference.
When I see people posting videos of dogs digging giant holes while complaining about the behavior, my first thought is not that the breed is the problem—it is to wonder why the dog was not redirected, called away, or corrected in the moment. Breed tendencies exist, certainly, but environment, supervision, and training matter just as much.
We feed our adults Wellness Core. It is a 5 star foods, grain free and provide high quality protein. Lagottos seem to do better with a grain free diet. Actually I think most dogs do better with a grain free diet. Most grains are fillers. Wolves do not eat grains in the wild, so it makes sense that neither should dogs. I also feed raw organic beef or venison bones, to supplement their diet. It provides them with a natural source of minerals. Bones are the greatest things for keeping their teeth pearly white. No need to brush their teeth, if you feed bones on a regular basis. Mine get them every week, but a couple of times a month will do it. I have zero food related problems. My dogs have great coats, bright eyes and plenty of energy.
Our puppies eat Wellness Core dry puppy food.
You will need to have a bag of Wellness Core dry puppy food before your puppy comes home. This is very important. Many people wait until the puppy is already home, then go to the store and find it is out of stock. They end up buying something else because they are told it is similar. A sudden food change will make your puppy sick, so it is best to have the correct food ready ahead of time.
You will also need two bowls, preferably ceramic or stainless steel. Puppies can chew plastic, so it is best to avoid it. Get a variety of toys with different textures so they always have something to keep them interested. Do not give rawhide or antlers. Rawhide can cause stomach issues or become a choking hazard, and there are many cases each year where dogs are seriously harmed by it. Antlers are extremely hard and can easily break teeth.
A crate is essential. A plastic crate with a metal door is a good choice because it is easy to clean, portable, and safe for travel. It also gives your puppy a secure, den-like space to rest. An 8 week old puppy will fit in a 23 inch crate. For an older puppy, a crate around 28 by 20.5 by 21 inches will give them room to grow.
Wire crates are not always ideal. They are not as cozy, and some puppies do not settle well in them unless they are covered. If you choose to use one, it is best to cover all sides except the door. They can also be unsafe for very young puppies, as they can get their teeth caught in the bars.
Your puppy will be too young for walks at first, and most collars or harnesses will not fit right away unless you are getting an older puppy. If you want to buy one ahead of time, look for an extra small size. Snap buckle collars are usually easier to put on and take off, but it comes down to personal preference.
People often ask about toothbrushes. I do not use them. Most dogs do not like them, and it is not something that comes naturally to them. Instead, I rely on raw, meaty bones to help keep teeth clean. Wolves maintain clean teeth this way, and I have found it works well for my dogs too. I use raw beef or venison bones and have not needed professional cleanings in years. I do not give bones right away. Wait a month or two after bringing your puppy home. If you prefer to brush your dog’s teeth, that is perfectly fine, I just do not have a brand to recommend.
For grooming, I use a greyhound comb and a soft pin brush. They do not need as much brushing as people think, especially if their coat is kept shorter. Still, it is important to brush them regularly so they get used to it. Keep sessions short and make it a positive experience. Handle their paws often so they become comfortable with nail trimming. We start this from birth. When they are small, you can use regular nail clippers. As they grow, use whatever tool you are most comfortable with.
This is a question I get almost every day. Many people come in set on wanting only a male or only a female, usually based on something they’ve heard or experienced before. One common one is that someone had a female dog that was hard to potty train, so they assume all females are difficult and want a male instead. That really has nothing to do with gender. Potty training comes down to consistency and proper training. When that’s lacking, people often blame the dog, the breed, or the gender instead of looking at what they could have done differently.
Another thing I hear is that females are calmer. That simply isn’t true. Energy level depends on the breed, how the dog is raised, how they are trained, and their individual personality. Every puppy is different. Some people will swear boys are one way and girls are another because of a single dog they had, but that’s just assigning one dog’s traits to an entire gender.
Then there’s the idea that male dogs hump. That behavior isn’t about gender and it isn’t sexual. It’s a dominance behavior. I’ve actually seen more females do it than males. The most extreme example I’ve ever seen was a tiny female Maltese who would climb onto much larger dogs to do it. None of my Lagottos, male or female, have ever shown that kind of behavior.
People also say females are more nurturing. Dogs aren’t humans, and they don’t think or behave that way. That kind of description is something people project onto them.
Sometimes people say they’ve only ever had male dogs, so they feel more comfortable with males. There really isn’t a difference to be “comfortable” with. A well-raised, well-trained dog is going to behave the same regardless of gender.
Another common one is preferring the “temperament” of males or females. There is no such thing as a male or female temperament. Temperament is individual. Most of the time, people had one dog they loved or didn’t like and assigned those traits to the gender instead of recognizing that it was just that specific dog.
The truth is, most of these ideas come from past experiences, both good and bad, and people carry those forward.
When I was a child, my grandmother had a Pekingese that was one of the worst behaved little dogs I’ve ever seen. He guarded his toys and would bite if you went near them. One time he even bit me and held on, and I still have scars. Later, I was also bitten by a large female dog that looked like a German Shepherd.
So what should I take from that? That all small male dogs are bad? That large female dogs are dangerous? That certain breeds can’t be trusted? Of course not. In both cases, the issue wasn’t the dog’s gender or size. It was lack of training and poor handling.
That’s the part people miss. Behavior comes from training, environment, and the individual dog. Not gender.
Another thing that happens is people try to apply human traits to dogs. They think females will be more gentle and nurturing, and males more dominant or independent. Dogs don’t think like humans, and those ideas don’t translate.
At the end of the day, nobody has ever had a good or bad dog because of its gender. If a dog has problems, it comes down to training and management, not whether it’s a boy or a girl.
All puppies go with age appropriate shots. We give the first shots as close to 8 weeks as possible, because the mother's antibodies in the milk will interfere, if the shots are given too soon. There are some that are unnecessary, and others that can be dangerous. We give the core vaccines only. All puppies are on a stringent deworming schedule. We alternate medications, because there is some resistance with certain parasites, and we want to make sure we do everything possible to ensure our puppy's health. Puppy owners are given a record of everything the puppies have been given.
Frontline Plus is what I recommend you start with. It can be given starting at 10 weeks. No need to use it in the cold months. It is a once a month topical. It does not require a prescription. You can order it online.
I use Seresto collars for my adults. There have been some reports about Seresto collars causing a reaction. From what I have read it is actually the counterfeit collars that are causing the majority if issues. They are cheaper on Ebay or Amazon, but are not the real deal. Also, it does not tell us anything about the dogs that had a reaction. Were these dogs with skin allergies that had reactions to everything? Were they breeds that are notorious for skin allergies and prone to contact dermatitis? We don't know. All I know is that they are incredibly effective, and I have never had an issue. I buy mine from Chewy. All my adults have them including the moms, so the puppies are exposed to them before they go home, so you know they will not have a reaction.
DO NOT GIVE YOUR DOG ORAL FLEA MEDICATION. As opposed to repelling fleas and killing them before they bite, the insects don't die until they bite your pet. It is literally poisoning your dog's blood, so it poisons the fleas when they bite. Who thinks this is a good idea? Vets. Vets do, because it is a prescription item and they sell it. Those pills were invented to give one dose to a flea infested animal. Of course they figured out that they would make more money if they marketed it as a once a month thing. Now there are hundreds of thousands of people poisoning their dog's blood with insecticide. I do not want mine bitten in the first place, Think about how it would feel if instead of using bug repellant on yourself, you take a pill that kills mosquitos when it bites you. The bugs die, sure, but now you have tons of bug bites, Does that seem like a good idea? Be kind to your dog. Try to keep them from getting bitten and suffering itchy bites.
If you ask one breeder what they think about another, you are usually just opening the door for criticism. It is no different than walking into one restaurant and asking how the place across the street compares. You already know the answer is going to be biased.
This is one area where I do things differently. I do not gossip about other breeders. I am not going to name names, repeat rumors, or put someone else down to make myself look better. I do not need to do that. My dogs and the way I raise my puppies speak for themselves. People who rely on gossip usually lack confidence in what they are doing.
I also do not engage in conversations where someone I do not know calls me to speak negatively about another breeder. I have no way of knowing what is true, what is exaggerated, or what may be completely false. There are always two sides to every story, and I am not interested in sorting that out through secondhand information.
I will also be honest and say that, like anyone, I have had people who were unhappy with me. Some were upset because I would not grant breeding rights after the fact. Others were unhappy because I chose not to move forward with a placement. I do not make those decisions lightly, but if something gives me concern about a home, I will always choose what is best for the puppy. There are also people who may be upset and never say anything directly, which happens in every type of business.
The reality is, no breeder is going to be the right fit for every person, and not every person is the right fit for every breeder. That is completely normal. You should make your decision based on your own experience, your comfort level, and the relationship you build with the breeder. It should feel like the right fit for you, not something influenced by what someone else says.
Please reach us at Enchantedlagottos@gmail.com if you cannot find an answer to your question.
What’s the difference between boys and girls?
This is a question I get almost daily. I have people tell me they only want a girl or boy for this, that, and every reason. Here are some of the reasons people give:
There are more but those are the most common.
The majority of people incorrectly assign things to an entire gender. It is usually bias from past experiences with other dogs, both positive and negative.
When I was a child my grandmother had a Pekingese. This Pekingese was one of the worst little dogs I’ve ever seen in my entire life. He was a toy hoarder and would bite you if you tried to pick up one of his toys. He was dog aggressive.
On one occasion the Peke was making a run for this tiny little dog and I saw it. I ran for the little dog, scooped him up and held him over my head so the Pekingese couldn’t reach him. He ran for the dog, jumped up to bite him, clamped onto my leg instead (accidentally) and locked his jaws. He was hanging off my leg by his teeth. I still have scars from that dog.
So what do I do? Do I look at that experience and make the decision that all pekingese dogs are terrible? Do I decide male dogs are bad so I only want female dogs for the rest of my life? Or do I think that all small dogs are bad? Does that mean I can only trust larger female dogs? Some would say yes.
When I was 9 years old I was walking home after school. There was a dog on someone’s porch. She looked like a German Shepherd. I walked down the sidewalk and was in my own yard going towards the door. The dog jumped off the porch and started barking at me. I got scared, ran and tripped. The dog bit above my knee, and I still have a scar from that dog, above the scar I got from the Pekingese.
Well now I have a conundrum. If I decided that small male dogs are all horrible because of the Pekingnese, then that means I only wanted a large female dog. The small male dog bit me accidentally. The large female dog bit me on purpose. So what do I blame? Do I assign blame to her size, gender or breed? None of the above.
The Pekingese dog was a spoiled brat that was not trained, never told no and was a little tyrant. It would be silly of me to blame his behavior on an entire breed or gender because of my experience. That dog was the issue.
Same goes for the female German Shepherd. She was allowed to roam free, was untrained and dangerous. There is no reason blame bad behavior on gender.
Here is another issue. People want to project some of the perceived traits of humans onto canines. Women are stereotypically thought to be calmer, more nurturing, gentle, affectionate, etc. Men in the whole are to be more assertive, independent and dominant. (Obviously this doesn’t apply all people.) People project these stereotypical human traits to canines, which is inappropriate. They are not humans and our human traits shouldn’t be assigned to them.
I assure you that nobody has ever had a positive or negative experience with a dog because of their gender. If a dog is horribly behaved blame the trainer, not the gender.
We use cookies to analyze website traffic and optimize your website experience. By accepting our use of cookies, your data will be aggregated with all other user data.